This innovation was achieved using the third generation numerical wave model, SWAN (Simulating WAves Nearshore). Utilising an unstructured model mesh enabled the efficient characterisation of complex bathymetry which is represented neither as accurately in coarser models nor as efficiently in models with regularly spaced computational domains.
The work is part of an ongoing project undertaken in collaboration with Deltares, the leading independent Dutch-based research institute and specialist consultancy, as part of the Flood Control 2015 Project. The objective is to develop a data assimilation module for SWAN which allows the model to incorporate both parameter and spectral observations to produce more accurate regional results.
Mark Calverley, consultancy director at Fugro GEOS explains, "Experience gained through this collaboration has enabled us to further strengthen our modelling capabilities and successfully generate high quality wave spectra to support our weather forecasting operations."